Frequently Asked Questions

The minimum usable space depends on the sport. A half-court basketball setup fits in roughly 30 by 25 feet, a pickleball court needs about 30 by 60 feet, and a full tennis court requires around 60 by 120 feet. An on-site evaluation confirms exactly what your yard can accommodate before any work is planned.

Yes, in many cases. A half-court basketball layout or a dedicated pickleball court can fit in yards that would not support a full tennis court. The deciding factor is your usable flat area after accounting for setbacks and drainage. An on-site visit measures the realistic footprint before any commitment is made.

Yes, if the existing slab is structurally sound and reasonably level. Cracked, heaved, or poorly draining concrete usually needs repair or removal first. The on-site evaluation checks the slab condition and grades it for overlay suitability, so you know upfront what prep, if any, is required.

Grass cannot support a court surface directly. The organic layer has to be stripped, the ground graded, and a compacted aggregate base installed before any surfacing goes down. Skipping that prep leads to settling, cracking, and drainage failure within a few seasons.

At minimum, the area needs clearing, grading to a consistent slope for drainage, and a compacted crushed-stone base. Sloped or clay-heavy yards require more excavation and sometimes a drainage layer. The itemised estimate covers all base preparation work so there are no surprises once the project starts.

A multi-sport court can be lined for basketball, pickleball, tennis, volleyball, and badminton on a single surface. The line layout is planned during design so markings for each sport are distinct and easy to read. See multi-sport court installation for layout options.

Most backyard basketball court installations come in at $15,000-$35,000, depending on court size, surface type, and how much site preparation the lot needs. A half court on a relatively flat yard costs less than a full court requiring significant grading. The itemised written estimate you receive after the on-site evaluation breaks every cost down clearly.

No. Grass cannot support a stable court surface. The organic layer compresses unevenly, holds moisture, and causes any surface laid on top to shift and crack. The grass and topsoil must be removed, the sub-base graded and compacted, and a proper base layer installed before any court surface goes down.

Yes, if the driveway concrete or asphalt is structurally sound, free of major cracks, and drains adequately. The on-site evaluation checks surface condition, slope, and drainage before recommending whether to resurface directly or address underlying issues first. A driveway in good shape can significantly reduce base preparation costs.

Permit requirements vary by municipality and lot. Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and surrounding areas each have their own rules around impervious surface limits and setback distances. The on-site evaluation flags any permit requirements specific to your property, so you know what approvals are needed before work begins.

Site prep depends on your yard’s current grade, soil type, and drainage. At minimum, vegetation is cleared and the sub-base is graded and compacted. Yards with significant slope, clay soil, or poor drainage need additional work such as cut-and-fill grading or a French drain. The written estimate details every prep step after the on-site evaluation. Learn more about what site prep involves

Most residential yards need at least minor grading. A court surface must slope no more than 1 percent for drainage while staying flat enough for consistent play. If your yard exceeds that, grading is required. The on-site evaluation measures the existing grade and includes any leveling work as a line item in the estimate.

Resurfacing works when the base is structurally sound, no heaving, no widespread cracking, and drainage still functions. If the sub-base has shifted or water is pooling under the surface, resurfacing only delays the same problems. An on-site evaluation checks the base condition first so you get a clear recommendation before any money is committed.

Patching works on isolated cracks or small surface failures, but when cracking covers a large portion of the court or follows a pattern, it usually signals base movement. Patching that pattern buys months, not years. A site visit maps the damage extent and tells you whether targeted repairs or a full resurface makes more sense.

Yes, when the rebuild includes proper sub-base grading and drainage. Standing water and surface cracking are almost always drainage failures, not just surface failures. A new court built with correct slope and a prepared base eliminates the root cause rather than covering it. Learn more about site preparation.

The on-site evaluation looks at how residents or students actually use the space, not just what the existing lines say. If a tennis court sits mostly empty but pickleball demand is high, the layout can be reconfigured. Usage patterns, available square footage, and sight lines all factor into the layout recommendation.

Tennis, basketball, pickleball, and multi-sport courts are all options for HOA and school sites. Multi-sport layouts combine two or more sports on one surface, which suits properties with limited space but varied demand. Court type, size, and surface material are matched to the expected user group and daily traffic volume.

Acrylic-coated asphalt and post-tensioned concrete are the standard choices for high-traffic community and school courts because both handle repeated use without rapid surface degradation. The right pick depends on your sub-base conditions and budget. Surface selection is part of the written estimate produced after the on-site evaluation.

Yes, a yard that looks flat can still have hidden slope, soft spots, or poor drainage that will cause a court surface to crack or pond water. Visual flatness is not the same as engineered grade. A proper site evaluation checks subsurface conditions and drainage flow before any base work begins.

Yes, most sloped yards can accommodate a court after grading brings the area to a consistent, code-compliant pitch, typically no more than 1 percent slope for drainage. Steeper grades require more cut-and-fill earthwork, which affects scope. An on-site evaluation confirms what grading is needed before any commitment is made.

The crew clears vegetation and debris, grades the area to the correct slope, compacts the subgrade, and installs drainage where needed. After that, the aggregate base goes down and is compacted in lifts before any surface material is applied. Each step is sequenced so the finished base is stable and drains correctly.

Yes, grading and drainage are core parts of site preparation, not add-ons. The on-site evaluation identifies the natural water flow across the area, and the prep work shapes the grade and installs any necessary drainage structures before the base is built.

Every project starts with an on-site evaluation that measures the available footprint, checks setbacks from fences and structures, and maps drainage patterns. That data drives the court layout, so the design fits the actual space rather than a rough estimate from photos or satellite images.

Existing concrete or asphalt is assessed during the site evaluation. If it is structurally sound and at the right grade, it may be usable as a base layer. If it is cracked, heaved, or poorly positioned, it gets broken out and removed before new base work begins. The written estimate covers whichever path applies.

Replace rather than repair when posts are leaning, footings are cracked, or more than roughly a third of the mesh is torn or rusted through. Patching isolated sections on a structurally sound frame is fine, but widespread corrosion or multiple failing posts means the whole fence is near the end of its life and repairs will keep compounding.

Properly aimed LED fixtures with shielded optics direct light onto the court surface rather than into players’ eyes. Glare is almost always a symptom of fixtures mounted too low, aimed at the wrong angle, or lacking cutoff shields. A site evaluation confirms the right pole height and beam angle for your specific court dimensions before any hardware is ordered.

Even coverage depends on fixture count, pole placement, and beam spread, all of which are calculated during the site evaluation for your specific court size. A standard residential tennis or pickleball court typically needs poles at each corner plus mid-court positions to eliminate dark spots. The layout is confirmed in the written estimate before installation starts.

Yes, when the fence height matches the sport. Tennis courts typically use 10-foot fencing on the ends and 6-foot on the sides; pickleball courts generally use 8-foot perimeter fencing. The site evaluation confirms the right spec for your court type and any slope or wind exposure that might require taller sections.

In most cases, yes. Post footings are placed outside the court boundary so the playing surface stays intact. The on-site evaluation checks your current layout, surface condition, and available clearance to confirm that new fencing and pole positions integrate cleanly without requiring changes to the court itself.

The most common cost drivers found after work begins are unstable soil requiring deeper footings, buried roots or debris that slow excavation, and electrical supply that is farther from the court than expected. The itemised written estimate covers known conditions; any hidden site issue is flagged before additional work proceeds so you can approve the change.

No, small, isolated cracks under about a quarter-inch wide are usually candidates for crack filler rather than full resurfacing. The deciding factor is whether the base beneath is still stable. If cracks are spreading in a pattern, widening seasonally, or accompanied by surface heaving, the base may be failing and resurfacing becomes the more cost-effective fix.

Yes, in many cases. Localized wear, faded color, and minor cracking can be addressed with targeted repairs and a fresh acrylic coating over the existing surface. Full replacement is only necessary when the base layer has shifted, drainage has failed, or damage covers the majority of the playing area.

Cosmetic damage is surface-only: fading, light scuffing, or hairline cracks that don’t move or widen over time. If you press along a crack and feel flex, see water pooling after rain, or notice the surface lifting at the edges, the damage has reached the base and is no longer cosmetic. An on-site evaluation is the reliable way to tell the difference.

Persistent slipperiness after drying usually means the acrylic surface coating has worn through its textured aggregate layer. Once that grit is gone, the underlying binder becomes smooth and slick. Recoating with a sand-filled acrylic system restores traction. Algae or mildew growth can cause the same symptom and requires cleaning before any coating is applied.

When damaged or deteriorated areas cover roughly 30 percent or more of the total surface, full resurfacing typically costs less per square foot than patching each zone individually. Below that threshold, targeted repairs are usually the better value. The condition of the base matters as much as the area affected, widespread base failure tips the decision toward resurfacing at any percentage.

Crack filling and low-spot leveling are standard repair tasks. Drainage problems are more involved, correcting them may require regrading the base or adding subsurface drainage before any surface work begins. A repair that skips the drainage cause will fail again, so the drainage issue has to be resolved first.

Most multi-sport court installations in Greensboro come in at $20,000-$45,000, depending on court size, surface type, and how much site prep the ground needs. Fencing, lighting, and line marking add to that base figure. Getting an itemised written estimate after an on-site evaluation gives you the clearest picture.

The biggest cost drivers are lot size, surface material, and the amount of grading or drainage work required before the slab goes down. Adding fencing, LED lighting, hoops, or net posts each carry their own line item. Poor soil conditions, like heavy clay, can also increase base preparation costs significantly.

A multi-sport court costs more upfront than a single-use court but far less than building two or three separate courts. You get basketball, pickleball, and other sports from one footprint, which matters when yard space is limited. For most households, the cost-per-sport ratio makes it the better long-term investment.

A combined basketball and pickleball court typically needs a minimum of roughly 60 by 90 feet of usable, level ground. Adding buffer space for fencing and player movement pushes that closer to 70 by 100 feet. An on-site evaluation confirms whether your specific lot can accommodate the layout you want.

Yes. A standard 60-by-90-foot slab fits a regulation pickleball court and a half-court basketball layout with shared line striping in contrasting colors. Portable or fixed net posts handle pickleball, while a standard hoop covers basketball. The surface coating is chosen to suit both sports’ traction and ball-bounce requirements.

Basketball, pickleball, and tennis are the most common combinations. The same slab can also be striped for volleyball, badminton, or futsal depending on the dimensions. Line layouts are planned during the design phase so markings for each sport are clearly distinct and don’t create confusion during play.

Most residential pickleball court installations run $20,000-$50,000, depending on base preparation, surface material, fencing, and line marking. A bare concrete slab with painted lines sits at the lower end; a full build with fencing, lighting, and a cushioned acrylic surface sits higher. An on-site evaluation produces an itemised written estimate so you see exactly where the money goes.

A regulation pickleball court is 20 feet wide by 44 feet long. Add a minimum 10-foot buffer on each end and 7 feet on each side for safe play, and you need roughly 40 by 64 feet of usable flat ground. Tighter yards can still work with reduced run-off zones for casual play.

It depends on whether you have roughly 40 by 64 feet of reasonably flat ground after accounting for setbacks from fences and structures. An on-site evaluation measures the available space, checks grade, and confirms whether the layout works before any commitment is made.

Concrete is harder, holds its shape longer, and gives a more consistent bounce, but costs more upfront and can crack if the sub-base shifts. Asphalt is less expensive initially and handles minor ground movement better, but softens in intense heat and needs resurfacing sooner. Both work well under a quality acrylic coating applied over a properly prepared base.

DIY court kits exist, but proper base compaction, slope grading for drainage, and accurate line layout are difficult without the right equipment. A court built on a poorly prepared base will crack and puddle within a few seasons. Hiring a contractor who handles site prep, surfacing, and line marking from the start avoids expensive repairs later.

Yes, when the sub-base is properly compacted and the surface is graded with a slight slope, typically 1 percent, water runs off rather than pooling. A court built on an unstable or poorly drained base will settle unevenly over time. Every installation starts with a drainage evaluation to address these conditions before the base goes in.

Most residential tennis court installations come in at $30,000-$60,000, depending on site conditions, surface type, and whether fencing and lighting are included. Grading on uneven ground and drainage work are the two factors that move the number most. An on-site evaluation gives you a firm itemised figure before any work begins.

The base is the biggest driver, compacted aggregate sub-base, proper drainage layers, and a stable binder course account for a large share of the total. Surface material, perimeter fencing, net posts, and line marking each add to that. Difficult access or significant grading on sloped ground pushes costs higher still.

A regulation singles court is 78 by 27 feet, but with run-off space on all sides you need a cleared area of roughly 120 by 60 feet minimum. Doubles play adds width, bringing the recommended footprint to around 120 by 66 feet. An on-site evaluation confirms whether your available space meets that requirement.

A smaller practice court or a multi-sport layout can work on tighter lots where a full regulation court will not fit. The minimum usable footprint for a practice surface is roughly 60 by 120 feet, but even that needs clear overhead and side clearance. An on-site measurement determines what format is realistic for your space.

Run-off space, typically 12 feet at each baseline and 10 feet on each side, is as important as the court footprint itself. Without it, balls leave play constantly and the surface edge deteriorates faster. The on-site evaluation measures your available area and flags any setback or boundary constraints before design begins.

A well-built court adds usable outdoor square footage and is a draw for buyers who want recreational amenity on-site. The return varies by neighborhood and lot size, larger properties in areas where outdoor living is valued tend to see the strongest lift. A court that is properly drained and surfaced also costs far less to maintain over time.

Most standard tennis courts are a good fit. A single tennis court (78 by 36 feet) can hold two to four pickleball courts, so the footprint almost always works. The deciding factors are surface condition and drainage. An on-site evaluation checks both before any work is scoped.

Surface condition is assessed during an on-site evaluation before any work is planned. Inspectors look for cracking, heaving, standing-water patterns, and delamination. Minor surface wear can often be addressed with resurfacing as part of the conversion; significant base failure usually means more extensive repair first.

Not necessarily. Tennis lines can be retained and pickleball lines added in a contrasting color, keeping both layouts readable. A dual-use line plan is a common request and is handled during the design stage so neither game’s layout is compromised.

A full conversion typically covers surface preparation or resurfacing, new pickleball line marking in a contrasting color, and net post installation or adapter hardware. The scope is set out in an itemised written estimate after an on-site evaluation, so you see exactly what is and is not included before work starts.

It depends on surface condition, which the on-site evaluation determines. Courts with sound, crack-free asphalt or concrete often need only cleaning and line marking. Courts with surface deterioration need resurfacing first so the new lines bond correctly and the playing surface is safe. Learn more about resurfacing

A DIY conversion kit handles net hardware and temporary lines, but it does not address surface cracks, drainage problems, or faded coatings that affect play and safety. A proper conversion assesses the base, resurfaces where needed, and applies permanent painted lines that hold up to regular use.

No. Tell us the space you have and the sport or sports you want to play. The on-site evaluation will confirm what the ground can support, what drainage work is needed, and which surface options suit your site. The written estimate follows from that assessment, not from a guess made over the phone.

We arrange court builders across Greensboro, Winston-Salem, High Point, Kernersville, Clemmons, and surrounding communities throughout the Piedmont Triad. If you are unsure whether your location is covered, submit an enquiry and we will confirm.

Surface cracks allow water to reach the base layer. On red clay sub-soils common in the Piedmont Triad, that moisture accelerates base movement, which widens the cracks and eventually undermines the base itself. Resurfacing a court with surface-level cracks is straightforward; repairing a failed base is a significantly larger job.

Permitting requirements vary across Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and High Point depending on court size, lighting, and fencing height. The local builder arranged for your project is familiar with the relevant municipality’s requirements and will identify what permits apply during the evaluation stage.

No. The on-site evaluation and written estimate carry no obligation. Work is only booked once you have reviewed the itemised estimate and decided to proceed.

A yard can look flat and still have slope, soft spots, or drainage problems that will cause the surface to settle or pool water. A site evaluation confirms whether the ground can support the court before any base work is scoped or priced.

That depends on the base condition, the extent of cracking, and whether water drains correctly. If the foundation is still sound, resurfacing may be enough. Major movement, drainage trouble, or deep base damage usually points to a rebuild.

Small cracks that are not addressed let water into the base layer. On Piedmont Triad clay soil, freeze-thaw cycles widen those cracks each season until the base itself needs replacement, a significantly larger job than early resurfacing would have been.

Not always, but they solve different problems. Lighting extends usable hours after dark; fencing keeps play contained and defines the court boundary. Both are scoped from the court layout so post positions and fixture placement work together.

The written estimate lists base preparation, surfacing, fencing, lighting, and line marking as separate line items, and the site is evaluated before any number is given. A final walkthrough confirms the finished court matches that agreed scope before sign-off.